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Ultimate Potato Salad with Juniper and Buttermilk

Makes 10 to 12 servings

2 1/2 pounds small red or white potatoes
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for cooking the potatoes
2 tbs. Grey Poupon country brown mustard
3 tbs. white wine vinegar
1 tbs. chopped juniper berries
1/4 buttermilk
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup golden olive oil, such as Filippo Berio brand
1/2 cup minced Italian Parsley
1/2 cup minced scallions (using the white and the green parts)

Try to find really small, firm potatoes, and pick ones out that are all the same size. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and set aside.

Cut the potatoes into even, wedge-shaped quarters and place them in a large pot; cover with well-salted, cold water and bring to a gentle simmer. Don't let them boil furiously or they'll break apart. Cook until a knife penetrates a potato wedge with a little resistance — they shouldn't be mushy. Drain and briefly rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Spread out the potatoes on the paper towels to air dry.

To make the dressing, stir the mustard, vinegar, juniper berries, buttermilk, salt and pepper together in a medium bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is creamy.

In a large bowl, toss the slightly warm potatoes with three-quarters of the dressing. Cover and set aside for up to 24 hours. Fifteen minutes to one hour before serving, add the remaining dressing and fold in the parsley and scallions.

Recipe excerpted from Serena, Food and Stories: Feeding Friends Every Hour of the Day by Serena Bass (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2004)